openaps · danamlewis · Jul 24, 2017 · Jul 20, 2017
diff --git a/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/autosens.md b/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/autosens.md
@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@ If you have papertrail setup (or are watching similarly through your rig itself)
 
 ![Autosens adjustments logged in papertrail](../Images/customize-iterate/autosens-adjust.png)
 
-As you can see, there are several types of adjustments that have occured during the day.  
+As you can see, there are several types of adjustments that have occurred during the day.  
 * In the morning, autosens was detecting some excess insulin sensitivity...so basals, targets, and ISF were adjusted down (by multiplier of 0.94).  
 * Later in the day (the blue boxed section), another adjustment was made to her BG targets because of a persistent high.  While not an adjustment by autosens itself, this is similar and can be set in preferences.json by setting the "adv_target_adjustments" to true.  Basically this preference will automatically lower BG targets (to as low as "eating soon" mode target of 80 mg/dl) for persistent high BGs.  
 * Later in the day, a couple brief periods of insulin sensitivity were short-lived.

diff --git a/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/bluetooth-tethering-edison.md b/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/bluetooth-tethering-edison.md
@@ -188,7 +188,7 @@ bnep0     Link encap:Ethernet  HWaddr 98:4f:ee:03:a6:91
 
 * About a minute after wifi comes back on (terminal session restores), your Edison should automatically disconnect the Bluetooth connection.
 
-Finally, it's time to take a walk.  About a minute after walking out of range of your home wifi, you should see that a device is connected to your phone via Bluetooth. Shortly after that you should see things update on Nightscout.  About a minute afer you come home, it should reconnect to wifi and automatically disconnect Bluetooth.
+Finally, it's time to take a walk.  About a minute after walking out of range of your home wifi, you should see that a device is connected to your phone via Bluetooth. Shortly after that you should see things update on Nightscout.  About a minute after you come home, it should reconnect to wifi and automatically disconnect Bluetooth.
 
 ### Additional App requirement on Android to enable automatic BT Tethering reconnects
 

diff --git a/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/ifttt-integration.md b/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/ifttt-integration.md
@@ -67,7 +67,7 @@ Content Type: application/json
 
 Body:  The content of the body will depend on the action that you would like this particular button press to perform.  You can only do ONE of the actions per button.  Some sample content:
 
-### Example IFTTT trigger conent
+### Example IFTTT trigger content
 
 Eating soon
 ```
@@ -140,7 +140,7 @@ CGM Sensor Start
 
 * Download the IFTTT app on your phone and log in.
 
-* You can add homescreen quick buttons.  Click on your IFTTT app and login, click on My Applets in the bottom right corner, and then click on the applet that you'd like to work with.  From the the middle of the applet, click on the Widget Settings, and then click on the Add button for the Homescreen Icon.
+* You can add homescreen quick buttons.  Click on your IFTTT app and login, click on My Applets in the bottom right corner, and then click on the applet that you'd like to work with.  From the middle of the applet, click on the Widget Settings, and then click on the Add button for the Homescreen Icon.
 
 ![IFTTT homescreen](../Images/IFTTT_homescreen.png)
 

diff --git a/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/offline-looping-and-monitoring.md b/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/offline-looping-and-monitoring.md
@@ -143,7 +143,7 @@ http://<nightscout_api_secret>@<rig_ip_address1>:5000/api/v1/ http://<nightscout
   e.g. -
   `@reboot         python /home/root/.xDripAPS/xDripAPS.py`
 
-6. Cofigure the xDrip Android app -
+6. Configure the xDrip Android app -
   `xDrip > Settings > REST API Upload > Set Enabled and enter Base URL: http://[API_SECRET]@[Pi/Edison_IP_address]:5000/api/v1/`
 
   (Note: Enter your plain-text API_SECRET in the Android app, not the hashed version of it).

diff --git a/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/oref1.md b/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/oref1.md
@@ -3,7 +3,7 @@
 NOTE OF CAUTION:
 * oref1 is different than oref0, the baseline "traditional" OpenAPS implementation that only uses temporary basal rates.
 * You should have run oref0 (basic OpenAPS looping) for more than two weeks, and be very aware of all the types of situations in which your rig might fail, before you enable oref1-related features.
-* If running more then one rig, you will want to make sure all rigs are running an SMB-aware oref0 version (release 0.5.1 or higher) before enabling SMB on any of them (even if SMB is not enacted on all rigs, all rigs need to know about it).
+* If running more than one rig, you will want to make sure all rigs are running an SMB-aware oref0 version (release 0.5.1 or higher) before enabling SMB on any of them (even if SMB is not enacted on all rigs, all rigs need to know about it).
 
 ## Only run oref1 with the following caveats in mind: 
 
@@ -72,7 +72,7 @@ If Pushover API token and User key were added during the setup script and you ha
 
 ![Pushover example of carbs needed](../Images/Pushover_carbs_needed.PNG)
 
-* When SMB is active and hitting maxBolus.  This is intended to alert you when SMB is going "all out", and will tell you the total amount of insulin OpenAPS thinks you require (insulinReq) if current BG trends continue. **DO NOT just blindly bolus for the amount of insulinReq.** You will also see that the pushover alert lists the amount it is attempting to SMB. You should use this notification as a reminder to tell the rig about anything you know it doesn't (like "oh yea, I want to enter my carbs for this meal", or "oh, hold on, I need an activity mode, becuase I'm gonna go for a walk in a few minutes").  You can also decide if a manual meal bolus is appropriate, or if you'd like to manually bolus part of the insulinReq. **If you're just using insulinReq and not doing a normal meal bolus, you should NOT do the full insulinReq as a manual bolus**, as oref1 is already attempting to deliver part of it as a SMB.  SMB is designed to administer the insulinReq a little at a time, in order to be able to safely react if the BG rise slows or stops, so in cases where you might otherwise consider a correction bolus, it'll often be best to not do anything at all and let SMB safely handle the increased need for insulin.  If you do choose to do a small manual correction bolus for a portion of the insulinReq, be sure to subtract out the SMB oref1 is already delivering, and round down for safety.
+* When SMB is active and hitting maxBolus.  This is intended to alert you when SMB is going "all out", and will tell you the total amount of insulin OpenAPS thinks you require (insulinReq) if current BG trends continue. **DO NOT just blindly bolus for the amount of insulinReq.** You will also see that the pushover alert lists the amount it is attempting to SMB. You should use this notification as a reminder to tell the rig about anything you know it doesn't (like "oh yea, I want to enter my carbs for this meal", or "oh, hold on, I need an activity mode, because I'm gonna go for a walk in a few minutes").  You can also decide if a manual meal bolus is appropriate, or if you'd like to manually bolus part of the insulinReq. **If you're just using insulinReq and not doing a normal meal bolus, you should NOT do the full insulinReq as a manual bolus**, as oref1 is already attempting to deliver part of it as a SMB.  SMB is designed to administer the insulinReq a little at a time, in order to be able to safely react if the BG rise slows or stops, so in cases where you might otherwise consider a correction bolus, it'll often be best to not do anything at all and let SMB safely handle the increased need for insulin.  If you do choose to do a small manual correction bolus for a portion of the insulinReq, be sure to subtract out the SMB oref1 is already delivering, and round down for safety.
 
 ![(Pushover example of insulinReq](../Images/Pushover_insulinReq_SMB.PNG)
 

diff --git a/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/useful-mobile-apps.md b/docs/docs/Customize-Iterate/useful-mobile-apps.md
@@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ In order to connect to your rig wirelessly, sometimes you'll need it's IP addres
 
 ### iNet or NetAnalyzer (iPhone)
 
-There are many scanning apps for iPhone.  iNet or NetAnalyzer (lite version...don't need to pay for this to work) will scan the network that the phone is using for other connected devices and their IP addresses on that same network.  So, if you run the scan while your phone is on a wifi network, the scan will be for the wifi netowrk and range will likely be `192.168.1.1` to `192.168.1.254`.  If you have your rig connected via mobile hotspot, then the scan will be for devices in the mobile hotspot range of `172.10.20.1` to `172.10.20.20`. (IP address ranges depend on the type of network being scanned.)  Some people have had more success with the NetAnalyzer app over the iNet app, depending on their router settings.
+There are many scanning apps for iPhone.  iNet or NetAnalyzer (lite version...don't need to pay for this to work) will scan the network that the phone is using for other connected devices and their IP addresses on that same network.  So, if you run the scan while your phone is on a wifi network, the scan will be for the wifi network and range will likely be `192.168.1.1` to `192.168.1.254`.  If you have your rig connected via mobile hotspot, then the scan will be for devices in the mobile hotspot range of `172.10.20.1` to `172.10.20.20`. (IP address ranges depend on the type of network being scanned.)  Some people have had more success with the NetAnalyzer app over the iNet app, depending on their router settings.
 
 * Open the iNet app and click on the big `NETWORK SCANNER`.  If using NetAnalyzer app, click on the `LAN` button on bottom bar and then `scan` button in top right corner of app.
 
@@ -109,7 +109,7 @@ These are some of my favorite Commands:
 
 **Show known wifi networks** - If I'm headed to a friend's house or traveling, I may want to double check if I have their wifi network already saved to my rig.  This gives me a simple list of the wifi networks I have saved in the rig already, and helps me know if I want to add a new one before I travel.  For this command, simply enter `cat-wifi` in the command script body.  (note: if I actually want to add a wifi network, I would switch to Termius app or login on my computer to add a wifi network...SimpleSSH just isn't a robust editor)
 
-**git lock fix** - Probably the most common error in a rig is the `.git lock` error that happens on occassion and by deleting the .git directory, you can get back to looping quickly.  For this command, enter `rm -rf /root/myopenaps/.git` in the command script body.
+**git lock fix** - Probably the most common error in a rig is the `.git lock` error that happens on occasion and by deleting the .git directory, you can get back to looping quickly.  For this command, enter `rm -rf /root/myopenaps/.git` in the command script body.
 
 **mmtune** - If you want to check how well your pump tune strength is you can use this command script to test it `cd ~/myopenaps && sudo service cron stop && killall -g oref0-pump-loop && openaps mmtune && sudo service cron start`
 

diff --git a/docs/docs/Gear Up/edison.md b/docs/docs/Gear Up/edison.md
@@ -23,13 +23,13 @@ It appears as though the main differences pertain to onboard vs. external antenn
 
 ## Lipo Battery and/or other battery supply
 
-Use a LiPo battery because the Explorer Board has battery charger circuitry on board for these batteries. The example setup uses a [2000mah LIPO battery](http://www.robotshop.com/en/37v-2000mah-5c-lipo-battery.html). This battery lasts in the region of ~16+ hours. The connector on this battery is a 2mm 2 pin JST to match the Explorer Board power plug. It's best to buy from a reputable supplier, because if the internal two cells are mismatched the Explorer board cannot charge them seperately and they are prone to catching fire. Make sure that it *includes a protection circuit* to protect over-discharge. **NEVER** connect the battery to the Edison base board the wrong way round. There is no manufacturing standard so never assume correct polarity. The connector JP1 on the Explorer board has two terminals. The left side is positive, the right side is negative. The side with the JP1 label is the positive side. Typically a battery's red wire is the positive wire.  Ideally you want a battery that has a 10k ohm thermistor for temperature protection by the Edison too.
+Use a LiPo battery because the Explorer Board has battery charger circuitry on board for these batteries. The example setup uses a [2000mah LIPO battery](http://www.robotshop.com/en/37v-2000mah-5c-lipo-battery.html). This battery lasts in the region of ~16+ hours. The connector on this battery is a 2mm 2 pin JST to match the Explorer Board power plug. It's best to buy from a reputable supplier, because if the internal two cells are mismatched the Explorer board cannot charge them separately and they are prone to catching fire. Make sure that it *includes a protection circuit* to protect over-discharge. **NEVER** connect the battery to the Edison base board the wrong way round. There is no manufacturing standard so never assume correct polarity. The connector JP1 on the Explorer board has two terminals. The left side is positive, the right side is negative. The side with the JP1 label is the positive side. Typically a battery's red wire is the positive wire.  Ideally you want a battery that has a 10k ohm thermistor for temperature protection by the Edison too.
 
 You can use any charger with a USB plug, including a wall power charger. The Explorer Board has pass through charging, so this is also how you will charge the LiPo battery.
 
 The following link is to a LiPo battery that is currently most commonly being used with the Explorer board rigs.  https://www.adafruit.com/products/2011. (If it is out of stock on Adafruit, it can be purchased from various sellers on Amazon here: [Adafruit Battery Packs Lithium Ion Battery 3.7v 2000mAh](https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Packs-Lithium-3-7v-2000mAh/dp/B0137ITW46)
 
-Alternative, but common, higher capacity batteries include the Adafruit Lithium Ion Polymer Battery - 3.7v 2500mAh (PRODUCT ID: 328) and the Adafruit Lithium Ion Cylindrical Battery - 3.7v 2200mAh (PRODUCT ID: 1781). They can be viewed here: https://www.adafruit.com/category/574 and comparables can be easilly located with an internet search.
+Alternative, but common, higher capacity batteries include the Adafruit Lithium Ion Polymer Battery - 3.7v 2500mAh (PRODUCT ID: 328) and the Adafruit Lithium Ion Cylindrical Battery - 3.7v 2200mAh (PRODUCT ID: 1781). They can be viewed here: https://www.adafruit.com/category/574 and comparables can be easily located with an internet search.
 
 For people in the UK, you may find you have to shop around to find the correct battery, as shipping restrictions appears to have reduced the supply somewhat. [Pimoroni](https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/lipo-battery-pack) appear to stock the same Adafruit 2000mAh battery as mentioned above. Another source looks to be [Cool Components](https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/en/lithium-polymer-battery-2000mah.html), but you may find shipping costs expensive. CAUTION: [RS Online](https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lithium-rechargeable-battery-packs/1251266/) sell a similar battery, but unfortunately it comes with the wrong JST connector (it comes with a 2.5mm JST XHP-2, and you need a 2mm JST PH) - however, it is possible to buy the [right connectors](https://www.technobotsonline.com/jst-ph-2mm-2-way-housing-excludes-female-pins.html) and fit them yourself (numerous 'how to' videos on YouTube).
 

diff --git a/docs/docs/Gear Up/pump.md b/docs/docs/Gear Up/pump.md
@@ -18,7 +18,7 @@ NOTE: For European/WorldWide users who have access to a `DANA*R` insulin pump, y
 
 The firmware version will briefly display after the initial count-up on a new battery insertion.  After the pump has been on for awhile, you can check firmware version by using the Esc button on the pump and scroll all the way to the bottom of the screen messages using the down arrow on pump. 
 
-A double-check for pump compatibility is to look for the ABSENCE of PC connect in the pump menu.  Press the ACT button, scroll down to the the "Utilities" menu, and within the "Connect Devices" menu and look for a PC Connect option. If that is present, the pump will NOT work for looping. If it’s absent, the pump should be able to receive temp basal commands and be compatible.
+A double-check for pump compatibility is to look for the ABSENCE of PC connect in the pump menu.  Press the ACT button, scroll down to the "Utilities" menu, and within the "Connect Devices" menu and look for a PC Connect option. If that is present, the pump will NOT work for looping. If it’s absent, the pump should be able to receive temp basal commands and be compatible.
 
 If you have one of the above mentioned pumps, but it has buttons that do not work, use the instructions found on this [Imgur photo album](http://imgur.com/a/iOXAP) to repair your pump.  This repair is quite straight-forward and easy.
 

diff --git a/docs/docs/Resources/Deprecated-Pi/Pi-setup.md b/docs/docs/Resources/Deprecated-Pi/Pi-setup.md
@@ -76,7 +76,7 @@ If necessary, you can erase (format) your SD card using https://www.sdcard.org/d
 * Next, connect your RPi2 to a monitor or T.V. using the included HDMI cable.
 * Finally connect your RPi2 using the power adapter.
 * You should see the GUI appear on screen.
-* As of 12/11/2016 the Raspberry Pi Foundation is disabling SSH by default in Raspbian as a security precaution. To enable SSH from within the GUI, open up the terminal window and type `sudo raspi-config`.  On the configuartion menu that opens, scroll down and choose `Interfacing Options` and then navigate to `ssh`, press `Enter` and select `Enable` ssh server.
+* As of 12/11/2016 the Raspberry Pi Foundation is disabling SSH by default in Raspbian as a security precaution. To enable SSH from within the GUI, open up the terminal window and type `sudo raspi-config`.  On the configuration menu that opens, scroll down and choose `Interfacing Options` and then navigate to `ssh`, press `Enter` and select `Enable` ssh server.
 * Configure WiFi per the instruction pamphlet included with your CanaKit. For those not using the CanaKit, click the computer monitors next to the volume control in the upper-right side and there will be a drop-down menu of available WiFi networks.  You should see your home network.  If you have trouble connecting to the RPi2 via WiFi, check your router settings. The router may need to be switched from WEP to WPA2.
 * Once you have installed Raspbian, connected to WiFI, and enabled SSH you can disconnect the mouse, keyboard and HDMI cable.